No suspension system is of much value if your steering system also isnt up to the task.
You cannot precisely tune spring rate for the best compromise between road holding and ride comfort.
Designs that allow the rack to be loaded in other ways can be prone to premature wear, sticking, resistance while moving, and even the risk of failure.
The front and rear suspensions are tied together so the chassis and suspension system respond as a single unit.
A prime example of this is the integral power steering conversion kit from Borgeson Universal. They should both be used whenever possible. They also are much more complicated to install (and tune) due to the need for an air compressor, tank, lines, etc. It presented a challenge for packaging when you wanted to install headers. Adding additional bars and tying them into the side sills reinforces the main tubes of the subframe connectors and the floorpan. This is mainly due to the inherent friction between the leaves of each spring along with the more-random motion of each spring (and thus the axle and tires) due to bushing compliance, spring wrap up, etc.
Provisions are made for all the optional features TCP offers for these systems. They feature the same spherical bearings as the boxed OEM arms while providing far more strength and an extra mounting point for the strut rods.
The starting point is the elimination of the stock rubber spring eye and shackle bushings because theyre probably worn out anyway. Filed Under: Ford Tech Tips, Mustang, Mustang Performance Upgrades, 2022 DiY Ford. (Photo Courtesy Global West Suspension).
The caster is adjusted on the strut rods that have jam nuts. To take handling performance to the next level, be sure the subframe and the suspension are strong and sound.
It consisted of an upper control arm, a lower control arm, and a strut rod on each side combined with an anti-sway bar, springs, shocks, etc. The mounting brackets for the lower links are simple to bolt on because they are located by the spring pad pegs on the axle. The use of a hydraulic cylinder/ ram to provide power assist wasnt a very elegant solution; it introduced many more joints where excess wear and play could develop. The Level 3 system includes the front bar along with the best shocks (single adjustment for rebound with dual-stage high- and low-speed adjustments for compression, plus remote reservoirs) and is the preferred choice for this vehicle type. Most remaining front suspension components can also be costeffectively upgraded in a daily driver to provide very noticeable benefits. These reverse-eye springs lower the car (at the same spring rate). Because there are far fewer of these bushings their effect is less. Such designs are more costly than a hybrid setup yet they can provide a bit better performance under the most demanding conditions.
Their design is unique in that the spring and shackle bolts ride inside a plated steel sleeve that is inside precisely machined cylindrical Delrin bushings. The extra rails also can provide a more convenient jacking point for lowered cars. For a daily driver that sees mostly street use and a minimal modification budget its only practical to minimally repair the stock system to the extent its necessary. Early Mustangs were never known for having great torsional strength or chassis rigidity.
Lower-cost systems tend to use polyurethane bushings and other less-costly components to keep the price down. Well-tuned shocks are able to dampen the springs and thus the loads placed on a coil-over suspension are easier to control and distribute and are more consistently dampened. (Photo Courtesy Global West Suspension).
Global West advises against using anti-sway bars when their complete suspension system is used. The upgraded Koni shocks are obvious but the better springs and Del-A-Lum bushings dont stand out very much. Whether you go with no rear anti-sway bar, a sliding-link solid bar, or a splined tubular bar it bolts right up to the g-link system whether youre using the OEM axle or one of TCPs FAB9 axle housings.
They allow use of all stock components but, realistically, these parts should also be upgraded to achieve the best result. The power steering pump rarely has any problems other than perhaps a leaking seal or hose. There are many more sophisticated and expensive options, which may be adjustable, but they are not really needed at this level of modification or its cost criteria. Extra strong, plated, steel shackles and Delrin side bushings further ensure accurate movement of each spring. The standard steering systems on early Mustangs left quite a bit to be desired. Still, there are a few things you can do to the stock suspension to improve it enough for street and moderate performance use. Global West Suspension, Mustangs Plus, and others make upgraded upper arms that are stronger and have revised geometry to take advantage of a dropped location. This greatly reduces friction and virtually eliminates unwanted movement.
A Monte Carlo bar provides additional support by connecting to the shock towers across the engine bay to further reduce their movement relative to each other. The installation of the upper links is by far the most difficult aspect of installing this suspension. Look for a system that uses existing factory mounting points for installation and has a vehicle-specific mounting bracket to ensure proper fit and clearance with the road and oil pan. The ride can be a bit harsher. Underbody subframe connectors can be supplemented for higher-performance use.
These twin-tube, steel-bodied, gas-charged Koni Sport shocks provide excellent damping and are an affordable alternative to high-end aluminum-bodied shocks. The increase in weight is minimal plus its located low and centrally in the car, thus helping to improve handling.
This geometry is inherently superior to the OEM design for a number of reasons yet the same basic control arms and strut rods can be used. Those with proper reinforcement, however, can actually help stiffen the lower control arm mounts and the frame rails in general, thus providing some handling benefit.
A special mount secures the top of the shock. These arms also offer several degrees of positive caster adjustment for improved handling characteristics and specialized suspension setups. The ride and behavior on rough surfaces and/or with high loading is simply better and more predictable and consistent with coil springs, even in drag racing.
Finally, because this design has such inherently low internal friction there is a reduction in impact harshness and an improved ability for the spring to move through the desired range of motion. Because power is useless without control you need to understand how the suspension helps the force at the tires be transformed into motion while the steering (for the most part) determines what direction the motion is in. The springs cannot move sideways to any degree, thus enhancing stability while allowing for slightly more effective tire clearance and/or wider tires. The lower links can be mounted in any of three locations to optimize the geometry for different purposes. These can be used with stock or aftermarket upper control arms, though the latter is really best. Their rubber bushings at the frame rail mount also tend to disintegrate over time, thus allowing the ram to move more than it should.
After the axle has been verified as being correctly located and centered these adjustable fixtures are run between the axle and the upper link mounts on the cradle. 
The system is simpler, and there are a lot fewer joints. Installation of a new steering box is pretty simple; its a direct bolt-in.
When combined with the better arms, bushings, shocks, etc., they very noticeably improve the dynamics of the vehicle.
mustang suspension heidts classic
Such bars may be smaller or larger in diameter than the stock bar depending on differences in materials, design (solid versus hollow), shape, and adjustability (extra holes, etc.). When you upgrade the suspension there is generally a very small tradeoff in a slightly harsher ride and the possibility of a feeling bit more vibration in the cabin but the improvement in dynamic response compensates for it.
Having said that, the stock leaf-spring suspension can be vastly improved, even to the point where it is acceptable for daily use as well as limited track use.
The majority of these upgrades involves eliminating excessive compliance/play in the suspension so that the movement of the parts is limited to a smaller range and is thus more predictable. The stock eccentric adjusters can loosen and/or shift under hard use, thus causing the alignment to be out of spec. The lower control arm with a strut rod has some pretty large (and soft) rubber bushings. This construction accomplishes several things. Even though much more radical (and costly) options are available, this simple level of upgrading still makes a dramatic improvement in vehicle performance. Air springs add weight and take up space.
Better rack-and-pinion systems such as the TCP conversion kit mount the rack in such a way that its not bearing any load other than that of the steering forces.
The lower arms also should be upgraded to stronger tubular units for this application.
Using leaf springs also introduces some unique issues. Perches using bearings instead of bushings provide the maximum reduction in unwanted movement.
These Global West arms are the stronger four-bolt variety plus they utilize a revised bushing design with harder durometer rubber to reduce excessive and unwanted movement of the arm. For a daily driver the most costeffective thing to do is to replace the existing bushings with firmer/higher durometer versions such as these available through Global West. Similarly, ride height can be changed by adjusting the collars on the shocks or by moving the upper shock mount to a different hole in the cradle.
Its typical of similar mid-priced and more-capable systems.
You can inexpensively upgrade to a higher durometer/stiffer rubber to reduce movement yet still have cushioning so the benefits are significant.
The front suspension design of first-generation Mustangs didnt change much.
Add-on electric power assist kits can significantly reduce steering effort on just about any vehicle and do so without the need for a pump or hoses.
These OEM-style arms feature slightly revised mounting nuts and cross shafts to reduce play via more precise threads.
The Borgeson system completely eliminates the hydraulic ram/cylinder and control valve because all of their functionality has been incorporated into the new steering box. The basic suspension was developed and refined for use in SCCA Trans-Am road racing.
For a high-performance application a higher spring rate is needed and this produces a harsher ride and fails to maintain as stable a total rear tire contact patch.
In higher-performance situations a rear bar may prove to be beneficial if it helps balance the car but this probably isnt an issue with a daily driver. An easy and inexpensive way to fix this is to replace the OEM perches with ones using polyurethane.
TCP offers this particular system in three types: polyurethane bushings, spherical bearings, and billet aluminum arms with spherical bearings.
These are also where the most improvement is possible, mainly because they play such a major role under hard braking. The steering is responsible for the cornering loads the suspension has to deal with but, more importantly, it takes you where you want to go (most of the time). If you change the leaf springs and/ or the rear axle assembly make sure to use compatible parts that locate and retain the springs on the axle.
These shocks provide a significant dampening improvement over the stock shocks and more consistent dampening at high speeds while providing decent levels of comfort. Other than cost, the only possible negative to subframe connectors is the potential loss of ground clearance, especially with a lowered car, and maybe a small weight increase. The main reason is their complexity. You cant always judge stiffness by its appearance. Incompatible designs could result in the locating peg on the springs not reaching the corresponding hole on the axle mounting plate. This means converting to a rack-and-pinion steering system. Even though you likely wont lose steering altogether youll probably end up someplace you dont want to, fast. Inexpensive rebuild kits with superior materials reduce the tendency for leaks or excessive play after the rebuild.
These panels box off the bottom of the car while better tying together and reinforcing the major structures. More importantly, the integration of the power assist directly into the steering box greatly improves steering feel and response.
The shocks provide 71 2 inches of travel. This kit from Chris Alstons Chassisworks is one example.
The following is an installation overview of a Borgeson powersteering conversion.
All spherical bearings have grease fittings and are capable of being readjusted and even rebuilt if necessary.
They reduce the amount of body roll and improve the overall response of the suspension.
A simple, inexpensive upgrade is to replace the OEM anti-sway bar bushings and links with polyurethane-based parts such as these from Energy Suspension. By using adjustablelength rods with rod ends that index to the frame (to ensure proper alignment) these strut rods also provide additional adjustment capability for a more precise alignment.
In most cases, however, such systems can still outperform OEM leaf springs. The internal structure of these bushings is such that the spring eye can only rotate around the mounting bolt; it cannot cock sideways or move back and forth as is possible with a compressible bushing. In its time the suspension of the first-generation Mustang was as advanced as any pony or muscle car suspension from Detroit. The anti-sway bars themselves can also be upgraded with thicker/stiffer parts to reduce body roll.
Another prime candidate for replacement is the rag joint between the steering column and the steering box.
Once you determine the correct spring rate you can finalize the type of spring to determine the rear ride height. The ease of replacement makes it feasible to have extra springs to swap as needed for different uses. I try to do so in a way that also helps make up for 40 or more years of wear and aging by replacing worn or damaged parts with cost-effective upgrades rather than installing direct-replacement parts. For a streetable track-day car that sees more that just the drag strip you want to take things a bit further for maximum performance. mustang v8 1965 upgrade hood 1970 under kit ac enlarge any When building a high-performance or restomod Mustang, installing subframe connectors is an absolute must. As with the front, the goal is the minimization of unwanted compliance/movement along with general spring and shock firming.
When combined with a proper roll bar/roll cage structure you have as stable (and safe) a platform as possible (without a full tube chassis) when starting with an early Mustang body. In 1970 Parnelli Jones took the Boss 302 to the Trans-Am Championship. This further reduces flexing and adds strength by tying much of the rear of the car together to absorb the suspension loads.
For 1968 and later models with a collapsible column (shown) the column can simply be persuaded back into the firewall with a suitable mallet.
This torque-arm/pushrod system does an incredible job of improving handling performance and traction under acceleration and braking. These tie the front subframe to the rear frame rails to supplement the stiffness provided by the body and the floorpan. An adapter is added to the lower arm to accept the bottom mount of the coil-over unit. This almost fully eliminates any compliance or friction while helping to reinforce the mounting box.
Electric-assist systems generally dont have the same direct feel as a hydraulic system. Global West offers a significantly reinforced stock-type lower arm that is boxed on the underside to greatly improve strength. The system weighed more and was prone to leaks.
In most cases a Watts linkage offers superior performance but costs more. Early Mustangs benefit greatly from a Monte Carlo bar (the straight, adjustable bar between the shock towers) and an export brace (the fixed bars running between the firewall and the shock towers). A better solution is to use DelA-Lum bushings from Global West.
These cars tend to sag a bit due to a combination of metal fatigue, corrosion, rust, loose or missing fasteners, and broken welds. Proper weld penetration is critical. One way to help ensure proper handling balance for a given vehicle is to source all components from a single supplier as a matched kit for a particular type of driving.
Kits are available for the 19641 21970 models whether they came with manual or power steering. It is not a step-by-step guide because there are too many differences among cars. Replacing them with thicker, square lockout plates eliminates this possibility because they are held firmly in place yet still allow for a wide range of adjustment (in six steps versus continuously). The reinforcement of this Global West arm (top) is more obvious because it is boxed to significantly improve strength while keeping weight and cost fairly low. These Global West tubular upper control arms are stout enough to handle even the most extreme loads. This setup is absolutely the minimum that should be considered for any kind of performance driving and even for strip use if youre drag racing. If a strut rod bushing fails you can be sure that happens, severely and quickly.
This quickly makes the steering more vague and slow. Think drag racing. These tabs are critical for setting proper pinion angle.
Del-A-Lum bushings fit where the OEM rubber mounts go. If you liked this article you will LOVE the full book. Because making any major changes to the stock design of my project car would inevitably exceed my budget, I profile certain targeted upgrades that yield the biggest performance increase for a reasonable investment. With this Global West complete coil-over conversion system, the OEM spring/shock setup is replaced by a coil-over setup, which mounts to the revised lower control arm to better direct/distribute the spring forces. For a daily driver that sees lots of potholes and other road hazards its best to use rubber bushings. Remember, the suspension is a system, not just a combination of parts. A harsher ride is one of them plus things like spring wrap-up also come into play. The suspension solution for this vehicle type builds on the highperformance street type and its basically an upgrade with greater emphasis on strength and tunability: a coil-over system from Ridetech. A curved bar may be necessary to clear a larger distributor or other obstruction but these are not as strong unless they use thicker-wall tubes.
The support cradle is reinforced by gussets and links, which extend forward to attach to the original leaf-spring mounts.
One of most effective and affordable methods for improving chassis strength and ridgity is to use subframe connectors. This is because highperformance applications place greater loads on the car, which means that achieving greater torsional rigidity in the frame and suspension is imperative.
It has far fewer system components. The majority of the front suspension loads are imposed on the shock towers yet theyre only partially welded from the factory. Even right off the showroom floor they were vague, void of any real communication from the road, and not very responsive to inputs. You rarely see leaf springs on new cars.
Its a question of achieving the proper balance.
TCPs g-link system is a canted four-link design. Mustangs Plus offers a chassis-strengthening kit that provides weld-on reinforcement panels primarily for the floorpan area.
If the various rubber components are cracked or otherwise deteriorated they too can be replaced for little cost. I also cover steering options for the three vehicle types. I discuss roll bars and cages in Chapter 12 but there are other modifications you can make to the basic body structure.
Otherwise, wait to upgrade it.
They tend to leak due to wear of the seals. mustang ifs boxing 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 plates 1970 ii ford For a daily driver the factory leaf spring-style suspension is usually retained. This provides firm or soft roll control. In addition, it provides even more beneficial geometry while still using the basic OEM design. This front suspension uses reinforced stock-type control arms and strut rods and upgraded bushings. A front bar with a different torsional stiffness is usually included in a sway-bar kit to better balance the front and rear roll stiffness. A rod end or spherical bearing is normally used in place of the rubber bushing, along with a much stronger and adjustable rod.
The tabs to be welded are bolted to the other end before the fixtures are adjusted to rest the tabs in the proper place for welding. (These welds arent pretty but theyre deep enough and dont show.). They significantly reduce the amount of movement yet still provide some isolation from noise and vibration, etc.
The springs can be replaced with others having a different spring rate and revised construction, which can alter the vehicle height. They dont compress to any noticeable degree and they reduce friction and impact harshness.
This provides increased firmness for high-performance applications.
It was very strong too. Bolt-in designs are generally not as effective as weld-in designs but welding them after theyre bolted in usually helps. In each section I consider the tradeoffs among cost, handling, ride comfort, installation, streetability, and reliability.
The long torque arm mounted directly to the front of the axle housing (and also to the body near the transmission) uses the axle forces generated to help plant the tires under acceleration and greatly reduce dive under braking. This significantly reduces the amount of unwanted movement while providing some cushioning. You experience better steering every time you drive the car.
If much higher power levels and cornering loads will be generated such modifications are likely necessary. They can even improve the ride due to less initial impact friction (stiction).
This added flexibility can be very convenient plus it can be a competitive advantage with quicker adjustments.
They provide at least as much tunability with superior geometry plus theyre still far less costly than a full Mustang II subframe system. If your old/OEM system needs any significant amount of investment for your daily driver or high-performance street car this Borgeson setup is the better way to go. (Photo Courtesy Koni). The mid-priced g-link system has steel lower links versus the lighter, more-obvious, and more-costly billet aluminum links of the highest-cost system but it is otherwise identical. These stronger square plates are held in place by the factory flanges and dont move out of adjustment under heavy loading as the OEM cam bolts often do. These designs completely eliminate any excessive for-and-aft movement of the strut rod while greatly reducing friction and strength. The strut rods are an often overlooked component in the front suspension. To keep the overall cost down for this level of build, a hybrid front suspension keeps the stock suspension layout and geometry but uses many high-performance upgraded parts. A higher-output pump is required so one is supplied with the necessary mounting bracket, hoses, steering link adaptor (if needed), and even a new rag joint.
Panhard rods can be advantageous in some situations where most of the turns on a track are in the same direction. They have six settings covering a wider adjustment range than the OEM bolts.
The stock rear suspension is a model of simplicity but soft rubber bushings produce greater compliance. Full welds do a much better job of distributing these loads across the entirety of the shock tower, thus avoiding the concentrated stress that causes cracks. These better tolerate higher spring rates and further reduce unwanted compliance. A simple adjustment ring and set screw provide the ability to compensate for any excess wear by reducing the internal clearances. With some modifications, however, the basic design even proved to be race worthy. Its also fine for a street/strip car that just drag races. Its larger size, however, requires some modification of the steering shaft.
Tubular, non-OEM arms are also available. To avoid potential noise and squeaks over time Energy Suspension includes grease fittings to allow for additional lubrication as necessary.
Polyurethane should never be used for a street car because it can restrict and bind the arc of suspension travel.
The location of the true pivot point is held stable and constant (it moves around with rubber), thus minimizing random variations in the caster change throughout the full arc of movement. In extreme cases and/or where the box is leaking or otherwise damaged you can have it rebuilt or buy one that already has been rebuilt. If the strut rods are improperly adjusted the wheel alignment may be off and there can be a high possibility of the car pulling to one side under braking or acceleration. They accept all other OEM components and are a very good choice for drag race vehicles where the need for lighter weight is more important than the need to handle higher cornering.
The far greater handling and braking forces of high-performance use require a significant redesign of the strut bars. Further front anti-sway bar modifications may not be needed if you already did some. These should be replaced unless you plan on upgrading.
The stock upper control arms are generally suitable for a daily driver but they still can benefit from a few modifications. Global West developed these revised strut rods to virtually eliminate any movement along the centerline of the rod, thus maintaining a much more consistent rod location/alignment and minimizing the effects of hard braking and cornering. The cradle may interfere with large exhausts.
In a powered system you also need a pump and hoses because the power assist is usually integral to the rack, if you want it to be.
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