how to flush mercury 2 stroke outboard

Way better to use a fuel stabiliser during flushing, such as Stabil or Evinrude/Johnson 2+4 Fuel Conditioner, and stop the engine before the carbie runs dry. See the full version of this review in Trade-A-Boat #495. JavaScript is disabled. These work well because only fresh water is pumped up the cooling passages unused oil runs straight out the exhaust passages. Next weekend, cram outboard in car with all our other boat $h!t and find that not all the petrol has evaporated yet. Both DT5 models should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. The trouble is that when the engine is running at full load, such as at wide-open throttle, salt crystals separate from salt water and lodge in the cooling passages. In reality the crystals aint salt theyre aluminium chloride formed from the reaction between salt water and the aluminium passages. Think of the convenience: Quick hose of boat, fill up water tank, whack on attachment, five minutes up the outboard 'ole in situ on the pushpit and we'd be done without all that faffing and whirling of blades. This is essential with carbie two-strokes as some of the air/fuel mix escapes with the burnt gases, and the better the scavenging the more efficient the combustion process. Unfortunately, apart from some smaller Evinrude, Mercury and Tohatsu four-strokes this feature is mostly limited to larger outboards. drag engine to car and cram in with all the other boat $h!t.

A smaller drum with overflowing water helps get rid of the oil and is really the only way of flushing outboards under 4hp. Well, you could just take it home whenever you can and flush it properly. One boatyard (Evros in Leros) used to have metal bins which were just right for clamping the engine to. Unfortunately no use to those with outboards without a gearbox but I have an interesting solution for those whose engines can run in neutral.

This clogging happens more rapidly in engines without a thermostat. You must log in or register to reply here. Thanks for the suggestions, I guess we will be using a bucket; But if anyone has come up with something cunning for the end of a hose, I'd love to know about it. The same could not be said of Japanese engines where the cooling passages could clog up with crystals unless regularly flushed. The engine would then be run for five minutes in the belief the crystals would be flushed out. A thermostat maintains running temperatures in a relatively narrow band so the cooling passages can be larger, allowing for a larger volume of water and more effective heat absorption from the cylinders. However, flushing is more effective if the engine has a thermostat, as running a non-thermostat engine under no load never removes all the crystals. The prop is so easy to remove and replace, I would advise never flushing it in a bucket or bin with the prop on. IMHO rather a dangerous method, even with the prop removed, an accident waiting to happen.

Tie a length of rope through each hole, tie that over the outboard or to the pushpit after slipping the fender over the outboard leg.

Raw-water-cooled outboards are designed to run no hotter than about 65C to prevent the rapid accumulation of these crystals. I could have used muffs but thought the drum would be better. we've abused the split pin enough replacing the impellor we don't put it in gear though, on the couple of occasions we've tried that, the buckets split - perhaps we need better quality buckets? So with that lesson learned, the Tohatsu M8B Ive been testing for 12 years has always been flushed using muffs and its never had an overheating problem. An impossible dream? Fill with fresh water and run the engine, preferably with a hose pipe running throughout. Fill wheelie bin with water via hose pipe. Replace all recycling in bin. This alloy has a fairly rough surface that catches the crystals more easily. However, Japanese outboards have traditionally used a high-copper alloy that is needed for easier pouring into sand castings. This alloy has a fine grain that doesnt snag the aluminium chloride crystals. Drive home with petrol fumes because we didn't run the carb dry. We've just acquired a 1996 Mariner 2.5hp 2 stroke outboard for our tender. I find at least 10min at fast idle is needed to open the thermostat and flush crystals from around it and the cooling passages. Controlling engine temperature is essential for efficient combustion and to meet emissions standards, which is why all water-cooled four-stroke outboards have thermostats. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Remove bit of shredded paper that blocks tell tale. Never run out of fuel while flushing a carbie two-stroke the lack of fuel also means no oil, so the bearings could be damaged and cylinder walls scuffed. Regular flushing helps keep the cooling water passages in top condition and reduces the possibility of your engine overheating. Carbie two-stroke 1.5, Colt, Junior, 2.3 and 3.3, 4 and 5 (single-cylinder). Crystal accumulation not only depends on how hot the engine is running but also the type of alloy used in its construction. Cut a couple of holes in the new rim, I found a large wad punch the best, about an inch diameter seems to work well. Does anyone know of any sneaky diy or aftermarket method of flushing through with a hose that doesn't involve getting soaked? Simply tape up the main intake, turn on the water and flush the engine for around 10 minutes. However, with the two-strokes that dont have thermostats its better to run them in gear in a flushing drum to raise engine temperature and flush out those unwanted aluminium chloride crystals. To prevent the engine running too cold when trolling, the passages are smaller than theyd be were a thermostat fitted, and these small passages are more susceptible to clogging. Carbie two-stroke DT2, DT2.2, DT3.5, DT4 and DT5 (single and twin-cylinder). Few of these have thermostats so running them in gear at fast idle creates some engine load and heat to remove more crystals than if they were just idled in neutral. Extremely messy, but did the job. Evinrude four-stroke 3.5, if not using the backwash attachment. Install engine and flush, thus disturbing our neighbours quiet evening. Carbie two-stroke Thruster, 2, 2.2, 2.5, 3.3, 4 and 5. Hence the old adage that taking a US outboard for a long run would flush the cooling system, almost eliminating the need for regular freshwater flushing. Four-stroke F2.5 and F3.5, if not using the backwash attachment. Four-stroke MFS2.5 and MFS3.5 if not using the backwash attachment. Can it be done without running the engine? This should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. US-made outboards such as Mercury and Evinrude/Johnson use either die casting or lost-foam casting that enables extremely low-copper alloy to be used. Outboards such as Tohatsus, Japanese-built Mercurys from 15hp upwards and Suzukis from 25hp upwards have auxiliary cooling-water intakes that need to be taped up before attaching the muffs, otherwise the impellers will suck air, run dry and be ruined. Drag down to pontoon from carpark How about getting a fishermans bait bucket. Empty recycling out of wheelie bin. Small four-stroke outboards use very little oil in comparison to carbie two-strokes so flushing in a drum is unlikely to give them the oil-coating issue. Ah yes. Rearrange bicycles and motorbikes in overcrowded garage so engine can be installed to drain on wobbly, seatless chair because we haven't a bracket for it yet. BF5. Cooling water in the cylinder block and head absorbs heat from the combustion process and mixes with gases in the exhaust system to cool them and help scavenge the exhaust system. Not only does this save water and fuel but also avoids annoying your neighbours by running the engine late at night after a full days fishing. Unfortunately, the Mariner/Mercury 2.5 2 stroke doesn't have gear lever. The trouble with this technique for carbie two-strokes is that they dump excess oil into the water, which is pumped up the cooling passages where it coats the walls and bonds to the alloy particularly sand cast reducing the effectiveness of the cooling system. You should never run a larger carbie two-stroke outboard in a drum as the much greater quantity of oil these push out can quickly coat the cooling passages and lead to engine overheating as I found out with a Yamaha 15F I owned for eight years. It's our first outboard and in virtually new condition so we want to look after it proper, like .

You may consistently get away with it but it remains an easily avoided risk. Change shoes and socks because I failed to jump the wave. The twin-cylinder Evinrude and Johnson 5 plus the 6, 8 and old above-prop exhaust 25 have special attachments that clip around the intake ahead of the exhaust outlet.

I have one. The outboard is too old (we think) to have the thread so that a flushing attachment can be used. 12 v pump in a bucket of water, engine rinsed.

Evinrude, Mercury and Tohatsu have flushing attachments that create a backwash around the thermostats and flush out the cooling passages without needing to run the engine. Struggle with wheelie bin to end of drive, to tip up and empty in gutter; hope it survives impact. The M4 and M5B should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. Our experiments in our wheelie bin suggest that we will end up with water everywhere if we try to do it in our boat's cockpit with a bucket; we don't want to have to remove the prop every time, we've abused the split pin enough replacing the impellor. The 5 should be flushed in reverse at fast idle to load the engine but avoid ejecting water from the drum. We had a hose attached to the threaded the coolant outflow, and had a 12 pump attached to the end of the hose. Carbie two-stroke M2.5, M3.5A, M3.5B, M4 and M5B. The 4 and 5 should be flushed in reverse at fast idle.

Amongst others, Suzuki and Tohatsu single-cylinder two and four-stroke outboards have provision for screwing in an attachment that connects to a garden hose. After they got fancy new plastic bins I took to running it on the pushpit with a bucket hung over the shaft, being fed with a hose. But oh, how wrong I was!

Before flushing muffs became common when outboard manufacturers started locating cooling water intakes just above the gear case torpedo, the traditional way of flushing small outboards was to mount the outboard in a drum, then fill the drum with fresh water until the cooling water intake was well immersed. In fact Im still running the original water pump impeller, and cooling flow is as strong as it was when the engine was new. Aground in Yorkshire awaiting a very high tide. So we are making our first forays into flushing. Cut the top off an old fender large enough to fit over the prop and cavitation plate. It's an idea but I'm still hoping for a solution with the hose that doesn't involve running the engine though.

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