challenger adaptive suspension lowering springs

Tap here to get it to dislodge, then we'll pry down, remove it, and disconnect them. Once this is disconnected, it may pop completely out, and we don't want it to do that. Now, speaking of lowering the vehicle, 1.1 inches in the front, 1.2 inches in the rear is what you can expect, effectively leveling out that vehicle. So when they drop into place here, you're basically gonna rotate this to make sure that wall seats up against the end of the spring, both at the top and bottom.

You're getting that aggressive, lowered muscle car stance. It's all personal preference.I like to put these arms directly on the top of the strut hat. So this is really just plugged right in. Once that's in place, we can use our floor jack to pump this up into place.

So going around corners at higher end speeds, linear springs aren't typically the better choice there. The bottom hub bolt will most likely make contact first. Find out how to get up to $200 for writing an install guide. So what I'm gonna do is actually leave everything as it is right now, head under the car, grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the bolt holding this tailpipe up right above the tailpipe kit. Start that threading by hand to make sure it catches. We just wanna make sure that doesn't happen, so we prop that up. Drop it down into place, and we're gonna thread that nut back through. We're gonna rotate that, so you can see the bottom coil lined up with its wall that it needs to sit against. Slide this out of place, set this aside, and let's reconnect that bungee cord. Set that aside.

So progressive springs are gonna have that sportier feel. This site uses cookies to provide you with the best experience possible. It's a really tight spot, so you might not be able to fit a socket and a ratchet. Once you have this out of the way, move these arms back. Please complete the following steps to add to cart: We're sorry. Its a relatively modest drop, but it comes with all the advantages including the right amount of clearance on the fenders and wheels. With all that out of the way, the last thing I wanna point out here is your isolators. And, again, we'll take a closer look later on. Next step, we're gonna remove the strut bolt on the bottom of our strut holding into our lower control arm. As you can see, it's getting to the point where we can't back this bolt up anymore because of the exhaust tailpipe on our driver side. At this point, just repeat for the other side of your rear end, and you'll be good to go. Now, this is stuck, so we have to dislodge the upper control arm. While the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed for bolt-on direct replacement, professional installation is still recommended. All right, so we got enough thread definitely from the top. All right, with that nut out of the way, you still wanna hold pressure on the upper control arm. All right, let's get this out of the way. Once we have that positioned correctly, we're gonna compress this, bring it down to make sure it's touching and they all evenly seat on the top hat. The install is gonna get full three-out-of-three wrenches on our difficulty meter. With all that out of the way, the last thing I wanna point out here is your isolators. We're gonna rotate that, so you can see the bottom coil lined up with its wall that it needs to sit against. We're gonna take our top strut hat and do the same thing we did, taking it off, just in reverse order. Wheel and Tire Clearance. THROUGHOUT OUR WEBSITE AND PRODUCT CATALOG THESE TERMS ARE USED FOR IDENTIFICATION PURPOSES ONLY. It's just a complete circle.So it makes it a little more difficult. Take this out. All right, first step of the reinstallation here is to grab your driver-side strut. On the bottom, same case. And you can clearly see the difference, especially when it comes to the rear springs. You might have to adjust the position and the angle of that control arm. And today, we're taking a closer look at and, of course, installing the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 2015 newer Scat Pack and Hellcat Challengers. But we know that these cars come with a pretty big wheel gap from the factory. The Eibach logo should be legible. Msg and data rates may apply. So once you get your wheels off of your Challenger, have it supported up in the air. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down.

Now we're gonna grab a bungee cord to make sure with this entire hub support, it's not putting too much pressure on the brake line. All right, once your whole suspension of the front end is dialed in, you wanna grab a torque wrench and torque down a few things. Now, in order to do that, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter short socket to get this off. I recommend wedging a pry bar in the outside. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. No sense putting everything back together with the crappy isolators just to find out that they're breaking and you need new ones anyway and then having to redo all of it. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. Free Shipping Offers are for Standard Ground Delivery Service and are only valid for shipping addresses within the 48 contiguous United States. We're gonna turn this up to 128-foot-pounds, and we're gonna do the bottom strut bolt connecting it to the lower control arm. We don't wanna tighten it down too much just yet.

Most people would go straight to the top coil and condense from there, but I'm going straight to the top hat. Now, this is stuck, so we have to dislodge the upper control arm. Once you have this out of the way, move these arms back. Once you have all your safety checks in place, what we're gonna do is continue to compress the spring. Now because we're working on a 2016, our isolators are looking pretty dang new, so we're not gonna need replacements. Here, what we're gonna do is start by using a hydraulic floor jack to support the weight of the lower control arm right underneath of the spring. Now, for the next step, we're gonna attach our shock bolt to the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. And, again, I'm using air tools. So what I'm gonna do is actually leave everything as it is right now, head under the car, grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the bolt holding this tailpipe up right above the tailpipe kit. Now, if you're looking to get this particular drop for your Hellcat or your Scat Pack, you can do so right under the $300 mark, around 290, 291 bucks on the site. So when operating a spring compressor, it goes without saying, guys, it can be extremely dangerous. No sense putting everything back together with the crappy isolators just to find out that they're breaking and you need new ones anyway and then having to redo all of it. But if you're working on the ground, it can get a little bit more tricky. Now, as you can see, it has a very specific shape. Whether youre sporting stock or aftermarket wheels and tires, these springs make sure there wont be any scraping or rubbing issues. And I just wanted to give you guys a quick side-by-side comparison between the Eibach and our stock springs. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. Once you get them lined up, grab your 18-millimeter bolt and put it through. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. And again, we're working on the wall-mounted one. Now, the factory springs are linear, and your new Eibach Springs are progressive.

So let's get that disconnected. Now that we have this supported, what we're gonna do is disconnect our upper control arm from the hub assembly. I'm gonna wrap it around one time, and then just, obviously, hook it anywhere you want, just not on the strut be because we will be removing that. Please save this email for possible future reference. All right, let's get this out of the way. First thing we're gonna do is take the hydraulic jack. So that's what we're gonna do next. Now, I just find this to be a whole lot easier. I'm gonna go up as high as I can by hand. So for now, let's disconnect that, and get it out of the way. It all depends on the spring rate. By entering your email, you agree to receive recurring automated marketing emails from AmericanMuscle at the email provided. You wanna make sure you're not putting any tension on this once the suspension starts to droop down when we disconnect the upper control arm. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. I'm gonna hook this back that way, even just a little bit takes that pressure off, and now we have a little slack here. On the bottom, same case. You don't wanna shoot this thing off. The bottom hub bolt will most likely make contact first. You might have to adjust the position and the angle of that control arm. We're gonna slowly let this down. Loosen that up, and you can just drop the entire tailpipe downward a little bit after unbolting the tailpipe tip if you remember that as well. It's gonna get installed to the lower control arm. Your front end is a little bit lower than the rear, so bringing down the front a little bit less than the rear levels things out and give it a nice, even, aggressive stance.In addition to the aggressive stance, you're also getting a number of performance benefits as well, thanks to the lowered center of gravity on your Scat Pack or your Hellcat. All right, so we got these connected. It has a notch up at the top that has a specific point that you're gonna install it in right on that lower control arm pocket. Set that aside. As you can see, we're using a lift, makes life a little easier. So I'm expecting this to do a ton of good as far as appearance, and especially when it comes to your handling and suspension components. All right, so we got these connected. Once you get that popped off, we'll disconnect the sway bar end link. Now, as you can see, it has a very specific shape. The next step is to disconnect your ABS lines from the brake lines. Next step here under the hood is to remove the strut tower cap, which is basically that chrome trim that we have here. Now, we can slowly decompress the spring. Reply HELP to 77572 for help. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down. Progressive Spring Rate Technology. And you'll know because you can't twist it. Now, ours are looking pretty good, so we're gonna reuse them.But keep in mind, none of them are included in the kit.

So grab an 18 socket, put it on the nut, and a 15 wrench or socket, and put it on the bolt head.All right, for the next bolt here connecting our lower control arm to the frame, what we're gonna do is use a 15-millimeter wrench for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for the opposite side, for the nut. So it can be a tough task, but, you know, have some patience. And you can clearly see the difference, especially when it comes to the rear springs. Now, we're gonna indicate our driver side because the welded-on nut here is gonna be facing the front of the vehicle. We have a 2016 392 Scat Pack in the shop ready for some Eibach Springs. You don't wanna tap on the upper control arm. Now, the other big difference here, and I know it doesn't make any difference to performance, but it's worth noting, your Eibach Springs are coded in red, factory springs are coded in black.The red is a pretty good indication of an Eibach Spring. Get that lowered racecar look and performance with a set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs. We're eliminating a lot of that factory wheel gap. And, again, I'm using air tools. So we have our coil over here mounted right up on the bottom coils. Thats why Eibach developed their own proprietary progressive springs to improve handling on the road and on the tracks. All right, first step of the reinstallation here is to grab your driver-side strut. Keep in mind that this may shuffle down from the bottom, so it's a good idea to have one hand holding that just to support it. This is your progressive spring from Eibach. All right, at this point, we can really slowly start to let down on our hydraulic jack. I'm gonna show you a couple of the steps here.

Having this nut here will prevent it from completely disconnecting and dropping forward. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. It all depends on the spring rate. So, you wanna do that while it is still compressed. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. And going from your linear to progressive with the Eibach with the 1.1 in the front, 1.2 in the rear, you're definitely gonna feel a sportier ride, and one that's more controlled. We're just gonna basically take this nut out of place, line these two up. Keyword being, slowly.All right, as you can see, the spring came out of place. Now, we can pull it off. Now, as you can see, we're putting a lot of tension and pressure on this brake line here on our hub assembly.

Now, the upper control arm bushing we've already done, this is 35-foot-pounds plus a 90-degree turn. So what you wanna do is make sure you're gunning this off from this side, but you may need to wedge a pry bar on the other side to keep that from spinning. Hey, guys. That's a linear spring, even gaps among each of the coils. And you wanna take note of the end coil at the top and the end coil at the bottom because they do have a seat or a wall that they're gonna push up against for the isolator. Now with them tightened up, you can lower your floor jack. Once you have it lined up top, we'll try to line up your bottom half of the strut over the bolt holes. Take that nut, and thread it on just two threads. With a lowered stance, you get a number of performance advantages aside from that aggressive look. Eibach warrants the Pro-Kit Lowering Springs against factory defects in material or workmanship under normal installation and use. AmericanMuscle/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. So that'll be right under your axle shaft. They do the Pro Kit, and yes, people have lowered the adaptive suspension with them. In addition, each spring are heat-treated to ensure durability and longevity.

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