alternative to alcohol resin printing

Minis better on large flat areas (like shields), but majority of minis still shiny, with residue in creases. Alcohol is flammable, please do not create an unsafe situation. Im very new to resin printing, this having been my first print on the printer, and I built my own curing setup by using a germicidal UV discharge lamp. Don't go drinking it thought, it's evil. What issues did you have with your cure process? You could go and see if they have Polish Rectified Spirit, Spirytus Duch Puszczy or Spirytus Rektyfikowany.

There's no additional chemical reaction needed to take place that alcohol would execute for you, which is what I had assumed: That it was a key component to the process when it is'nt.

I personally dont want to be scrubbing my delicate prints pre curing as damaging a print means a complete redo and a lot of my models have fine bits that would break off. I'm guessing because you just got it you already bought a stock of resin and so can't just switch over to water washable resin, I'm in the same boat but luckily I already had 20L of IPA so won't be running out any time soon.

5 minutes in my UV box and they are ready for inspection. Great find. For the resin tainted solution I do the same thing as I used to with IPA. It does require a second cleaning step to wash off the Simple Green, but its water soluble, so a simple rinse helped there.

Parts should be moved around in the solvent as well as soaked for optimal cleaning. I placed the prints in a glass jar and covered them with room temperature water. Thanks for the reply!

I hit it with a UV light for 10+ minutes to cure all the loose resin then I run it through a coffee filter in a funnel. It's a straight substitute for isopropyl alcohol, way less flammable and cleans just as well. Water will have less dissolved oxygen in contact with the print than air will so the curing reaction is more efficient.

Success! I use it in an ultrasonic cleaner which beats the pants off of the CW1 for cleaning ability. I use Mr. Clean, the neon green stuff, and it works great! that would perform the same job". You won't be able to separate/dissolve the uncured resin from the cured resin without the use of a solvent that has enough of a hydrocarbon back-end (IPA, even Ethanol has 2 carbons) to interact with the organic non-polar functional groups present on the UV-Curable resins.

It does create bubbles.

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Bioethanol is the same as ethanol, but supposedly from renewable resources, both are available in a number of different purities, Exposing them to the atmosphere allows them to absorb moisture, which messes with the purity! A little better, but still not what I want. How To Replace The Ender 3 Main Board With A Silent 32 Bit Board, Automated Coronavirus (COVID-19) Testing Technologies, How to Wire and Install Electronics for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 6, How to Assemble the Afterburner Toolhead for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 5, How to Assemble the Gantry for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 4, How to Assemble the Z-Motion System for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 3.

(And secondly, I am not in love with having an unsecured steam tray container of IPA sitting around where it could get bumped and knocked over. Not Replied I don't yet use it in my CW1 as I still have a tank full of Alcohol.

My thoughts on this compared to ultrasonic cleaners is that agitation may be key with the alternative solutions working or not (I'm thinking of Uncle Jessy's youtube testing). My old B9 Creator DLP printer with yellow resin was a joy to clean the resin from the model. When curing the parts in the Form Cure, you can also submerge small parts in a bath of clean water, glycerin, or mineral oilinside of a glass Pyrex container. your print).

I was just a bit over optimistic about the resin setting down after a while.

I started printing pretty recently and went with denatured alcohol. For my next run Ill use a display turntable and a 405nm UV LED light bar that came with some UV cure screen protectors for my cell phone.

Its cheap for a gallon at any car place like Halfords etc.

I have a can of it that I got from the hardware store in the pain section which I use in my alcohol burner that I use to tip new arrows.

Followed by rinse under tap.

He finds that this helps to free up some resin before you finish washing your parts with IPA. For the detailed workflow, read ourguide topost-processing resin 3D printed parts.

When creating designs with narrow channels, such as. The other thing I may try is Methyl Hydrate (aka methyl alcohol, methanol, wood alcohol) it is readily available here in hardware stores, at an economic price, I'm just not sure if it's a direct replacement for IPA or Ethanol. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/car-shampoo/carplan-trade-super-tfr-5l-703633.html, Who knew, it's currently even cheaper on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LRN1DAK. I also do not recommend using the temperature control. If you are like me then youve noticed that the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic has caused a massive shortage of IPA. Replied

People have been seeking and testing alternatives for years in places where IPA is hard to get or because they don't like handling it. So it would seem that alcohol is really only used because it's convenient to not need to dry it off ~ especially so should your print have narrow nooks and crannies unreachable with a cloth had you just used water.

Not bad but it may be a bit much for the CW1. Then use a sealed plastic bag with your print in the alcohol in that. Looks like we are stuck with IPAyuck.

After their second bath I rinsed them in water to clean off the Mean Green. You should see agitation in the liquid as it cleans.

Using the Photons test print (the lattice cube), cleaning results were excellent. I completely forgot to update this thread, but I tried Acetone and it worked perfectly until the IPA I bought turned up! If yes, did you dilute it? There are a few based on similar solvents as Mean Green. By browsing our website, you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies.

This time I preheated the Mean Green in the ultrasonic cleaner to 50C. Take my writings with a grain of salt, though, because I'm very new to resin printing. Germicidal is UV-C which isnt what most resin cures at.

Feel free to ASK questions, POST cool prints, DISCUSS hardware designs, and SHARE anything you think is relevant to resin-based printing. Lots of LED strips or lamps at that range available as well so if you find you dont like the form factor of that one (maybe it doesnt fit larger prints well or something) then there are some cheap alternatives to go for. I don't know about the rest of the world but it is fairly cheap and easy to find in the US in places like Walmart along with other cleaning chemicals. I havent gone back and experimented as I have a working process with my cleaner and am happy with it.

After the ultrasonic cleaner settled it did appear that the resin sank to the bottom of the vat. Minis came out shiny, creases showing what appears to be mix of resin and mean green residue cured. It seems to become saturated after a few uses (about 5 cleaning runs of quite big prints), but it is hard to judge, because the solution becomes opaque after two of three runs. Buying IPA from a pharmacy here in Canada is not economic so I've ordered 4 liters (1 Gallon) of IPA on amazon and will give that a go. That was really what spurred me to use heat in the first place. Customers looking for IPA alternatives for resin printingcan test these at their own risk to see if they may work for their use case: As always, all solvents and resins should be disposed of in accordance with your local regulations and suppliers SDS.

Location Halifax UK, Just an idea: Maybe you can use it to clean the MK2/MK3/Mini sheets? It's pretty pricey at $US300 for 5 gallons, though. Required fields are marked *.

Im in the uk also and this looks like a great solution. Methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) should work, this is ethanol mixed with a percentage of methanol to prevent it from being potable. He said, and I'm quoting him here, "shit man you could go down to the liquor store and grab a bottle of Everclear or even some cheap bottle of Karkov vodka, really. For more detailed information about washing your prints, continue reading on our support site to learn more about rinsing stages, best practices for different part geometries, and more. Brand new to the resin printing scene, I've been printing in PLA for almost a year and wanted to print some amazing ingredients detailed minis for my YouTube channel and painting service, so chose the Anycubic Photon (just arrived!)

Formlabs 3D Model Manager Evan Fisher walks the viewersthrough CAD and PreForm tips for larger parts and introduces Form Wash L and Form Cure L for post-processing. General wisecrack of the benign kind. I'm also in the UK and looking for an alternative to IPA, like the Mean Green. Does anyone have any feedback on using the TFR505?

Solved Form Wash and Form Wash L automatethe print washing process for consistent, thorough, no-mess cleaning, while Form Cure and Form Cure L precisely combines heat and 405 nm light to consistently post-cure prints. Please let me know about the results. So far I'm not impressed, a 9 min clean cycle still leaves uncured resin traces. https://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=qvcn8v2090584&strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=323&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1. There have been plenty of posts about this over on r/3Dprinting which I'm sure probably have an answer. Acetone is more hazardous to your health and the environment. It consits mostly of a mixture of different alcohols and in the ultrasonic cleaner, it perfeclty removes resin residue from the print.

Inspection showed glossy areas of the print where there had been a layer of uncured resin clinging to the surface. Instead you should fill the cleaner with water. Most of the resins I'll be using only require 30 seconds of rinse time. Asking because I was thinking of getting a cheap ultrasonic watch cleaner and using it with Mean Green.

I refuse to by pricey "special" resin cleaners from folks like 3DJake. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); 2019 RAVE ROBOT, LLC.

I'm also trying to put it back in the bottle and radiate it with UV. In addition to disposal/environmental concerns, it's not easy to find a gallon jug of 91-99% IPA in the US. You could try a fine bristled tooth brush and sit and scrub them if you arent wanting an ultrasonic.

I've printed 1l of resin so far with 0 issues using either the IPA or Acetone, but as you say quite rightly, the Acetone stinks whereas the IPA is a lot milder. Rinse with water and see if there is any uncured resin remaining.

In general, IPA is our recommended post-processing solvent for cleaning resin prints. Keiran quick questions about disposal/clean uphow did you clean out the basin of the ultrasonic cleaner and what did you do with the resin tainted mean green liquid? Can I clean my resin 3D prints without isopropyl alcohol (IPA)? Can't recommend the Resin Cleaner but the ResinAway stuff is pretty good. Im calling this test a failure.

I put them back in for another 5 minute cycle to clean off any remaining resin. Auf dem Display; Fragezeichen hinter der Rest-Druck-Zeit.

If using heat set the temperature and wait for it to equilibrate. First, youll want to thoroughly wipe off any excess resin from the part and build platform before submerging them in IPA. You might need to increase the duration of the wash and maybe use a soft tooth brush to get into little tiny crevices without the heat.

Your email address will not be published. I can probably use a milder blend.

Sticky

The ultrasonic cleaner I purchased allows for both temperature control and a set time for cleaning. I also do a rinse with water after the ultrasonic to clean off the solution and then if Im not curing the part submerged in water I let it fully dry before curing.

That "Frosch" cleaner does a decent enough job, though I could not run a reasonable survey yet, because I'm in the middle of a production run. I still think that for the price it is a valid alternative, and since the results are sufficiently good, I#ll stick to it until the actual order is finished. For each part, you should use your own judgement whether the part is fully cleaned. Different resins will respond differently as well. Isopropyl alcohol is the obvious answer, but when it is in short supply what are my alternatives. I did not break out the two variables as this was less of a controlled study and more of a Oh no, I have 1 bottle of IPA left and cant get it kind of necessity. Any ideas on where to source the basket for the CW1?

Rinsing, washing, and curing allows you to produce highly functional, detailed parts and finish your parts effectively. If you have access to IPA, there are a few things you can do to prolong its usability. For really delicate parts I might do a final rinse in IPA if there is a lot of really fine detail work that needs additional cleaning but thats fairly uncommon except in prints where the part itself is cupping around itself and holding the resin inside a small pocket. Take off minis from built plate and dunk rinse in tub 2 of water. We recommend Form Wash and Form Curealongside Formlabs desktop printers, and Form Wash L and Form Cure L for large-format SLA printers to automate and simplify your post-processing. Hi thanks for showing this they make water washable resin now -> amazon. Sorry to hear that Flash Cleaner in the Anycubic wash and cure station isnt working.

The water, glycerin, or mineral oil helps exclude oxygen from the surface of your printed part as you post cure, resulting in a tack-free well-cured surface.

Pouring it back and forth between a container and the tray for every print isn't ideal. Of course I used my trusty Anycubic Photon.

If it's just to break down the greasy resin, would Dawn dish soap in water work?

As always, feel free to contact the Formlabs sales and services team for further recommendations. Water and solvents contaminated with alcohol and liquid resin should never be poured down your sink drain. There is also Yellow Magic, again I've no experience with it but seems to be popular at the professional level. Are you using a purchased station, made your own like I did, or just using the sun?

@media(min-width: 800px) { .header_responsive { width: 728px; height: 90px; } }. Parts should be washed before removing supports. Formlabs generally recommends the use of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) with a concentration of at least 90% to clean and dissolve uncured resin. I've not used either with resin but I've heard DA is more aggressive and can damage the finish.

IPA dissolved resin better than these degreasers so it needs less oomph to clean off the print. Feels like snake oil. If you use a water washable resin then supposedly you can just use water. Im honestly not sure if this explanation is completely correct but anecdotally I have noticed for my prints that when I cure then submerged in water they do seem to cure faster.

I'd really love to get some input on the topic from people in germany. Mean Green is pretty awesome at removing resin. It does not have a warming function. I suspect I can treat the Mean Green the same way I did IPA and expose it to UV to cure the suspended resin then filter it through a coffee filter to remove the particles. So would Methylated Sprits do the same job? I recommend TPM.

I'm happy I'm seeing progress, but still not satisfied, especially with all the extra effort I'm having to do compared to before. I haven't tried the other solutions yet with the CW1.

Has anyone tried Mean Green?

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My favourite so far is named "Frosch Spiritus Glas-Reiniger" (1,65 per liter).

Some collects at the bottom, but the cleaner never fully clears again even under UV radiation. The ultrasonic cleaner should work even if I need to use IPA or methylated spirits so I dont feel this is a wasted purchase. My first attempt at cleaning my prints was to print out some Star Wars minis I had designed with my 50/50 mixture of Siraya Blu and Elegoo Rapid Grey resin. @media(min-width: 500px) { .header_responsive { width: 468px; height: 60px; } } I've used it to make alcohol ink and clean all kind of things. If you give it a try wed love to hear about your mileage as well. Formlabs recommendForm Washalongside Formlabs desktop printers, andForm Wash Lfor large-format SLA printers to automate washing and rinsing your printed parts. I am wondering if there are alternatives to this that could more easily evaporate off when done.

If youre interested in acquiring TPM for your workflow, we recommend this list of approved vendors: To learn more about integrating TPM into your workflow and special disposal requirements, please continue reading on our support site. Learn more about our use of cookies: Can I Clean My Resin Prints Without Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)? As far as I can tell it works great and I've been super happy with the quality of the finish (as good as any other I've seen).

The second attempt at cleaning my prints, I repeated the exact same files with the exact same resin. Take off minis, and scrub with toothbrush followed by dunk rinse in tub 2 of water. Recent Posts Unread Posts Tags, Forum Icons: I used Simple Green Extreme in a strong ~11:1 dilution, since I had some for general purpose cleaning. We use cookies on our websites for a number of purposes, including analytics and performance, functionality and advertising. Just wanted to confirm something. Best of luck in the hobby and thanks for reading. But if your process only works with 50 C heat, then Ill have to find a different ultrasonic cleaner. Since it contains some "soapy" component, the washed-off resin remains in an emulgated state for some time, so the liquid turns opaque after the third process or so, but after two days resting time it clears itself and the resin collects at the bottom of the container.

Failing to properly wash parts will leave the parts sticky and unseemly, so post-processing is vital to successful 3D printing. Have you got a Polish shop nearby? This is to simply separate the monomer (liquid state of the resin) from the polymer (solid state i.e. Spoken from a personal experience. Continue reading our support article for more information on proper resin disposal.

When handling wash solvents, always consult the safety data sheet (SDS) from the supplier as the primary source of information and ensure appropriate ventilation when handling.

Maybe it clears faster that way and the resin can be filtered out. In case you cannot acquire IPA, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM) is a tested alternative for parts printed with non-biocompatible Formlabs resins.

I've seen some posts about letting it dry/harden in sunlight so it can be disposed of as a solid in regular trash, but that seems to have varying degrees of success. Sure but what are the mechanical properties? Wow this info is awesome thank you so very much! Is there any alternative tou could recommend please? The UV glue from your screen protector would be in the same range as the resin so good call there. Denatured Alcohol and acetone are two other (cheap) choices.

Aaand good luck with that. https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/.

I can find it in smaller bottles, but I'd like to have a jug to drain it all back into.

, Often linked posts:Going small with MMU2Real Multi MaterialMy prints on Instagram. Take off minis, and scrub with toothbrush followed by scrub and rinse in tub 2 of water. Subreddit dedicated to creating a community around users of SLA and other resin-based 3D printing systems. I am still looking for alternatives due to the extreme price.

I scanned through their safety sheet and tried out different cleaning agents.

Thanks for the report. I used it on jewelry in my ultrasound (resin printer due in 2 weeks) and it was great even diluted. I dont know yet how many build plates I can do in a single batch of Mean Green before it needs to be changed out.

Do not use IPA to clean the FEP. Hot

but they are cheaper than the alternative non/less volatile alternatives. Attempts listed below, mean green as is without dilution: 1) Mean green in tub 1, CW1 wash for 5 min. Closed, General discussion, announcements and releases.

Thanks for reading, so glad you found it helpful. After the first failure, you changed two variables, i.e., you doubled the amount of ultrasonic time from a single 5-minute bath to two 5-minute baths, and you also increased the bath temperature from ~22 C to 50 C. Have you tried experimenting whether it was the temperature increase that did the trick, or was it the second bath that fixed it?

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A whole bunch of other things work to varying degrees, whatever the UK equivalent of Mean Green cleaning liquid is, methylated spirits etc. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. The idea of wet curing (having the print submerged in water) never crossed my mind, I didnt think that the UV light would have meaningful penetration through the water to reach the print.

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