removing rusted bolts from cast iron

Start small and go larger until you can pick the bits out of the threads (or an extractor takes effect). You must log in or register to reply here. Find center and drill a lot of times when your drilling the drill will turn out the stud. I have two trucks now with Dana 60's so have to set them up for Snowplowing the farm. Turn the wire feed down.

I ended up blowing it out with a torch.l I found drilling you have to be dead center. I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. I have some atf drippings so will use that. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). But try not to break it! Once you break thru the bottom of the broken bolt it will collapse some and take the pressure off, and can probably be turned out with a new sharp easy out type extractor. It depends it if is broke from over tightening or from being stuck fast in the threads for one of several causes. Sorry that would probly be to fast and easy. Why not drill it out to tap size and remove the threads with a tap? I drill and use extractors on all mine. One time a stud broke off inside and I broke off easy-out. Most of the broken bolts I deal with are gauge bolts on propane tanks. What works on one bolt may not work on the next. Thank you! One of the stuck causes that welding a washer and nut does not work is when a bolt that is long enough to bottom out and mushroom the end of the bolt to where it can not back out. I did not try the welding idea because my welder runs off a 220 diesel generator which was outside and it does not like to start in cold weather. That gave me a drill guide to drill out the holes. I then found a long right hand 1/4 bit that inserted into my drill gave just enough clearance past timing cover to put bit at 90 degrees. Vicegrips wont turn it - they just slip off - about 1/16-3/32 sticking out of hole. A handle welded on can be a godsend. I then had to drill it out and remove the threads with a tap. "logo": { 6 studs per hub flange and three home made lock plates to bridge two neighboring studs and bend corners of lock plates against nuts. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", The carbide burr can also be used to "pull" an errant hole back to center. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up. I was just trying to explain in the only way I know how that every case can be different. My Case 530 is 1961 so that old broken bolt had possibly been rusting in there for 50 years or so. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). I purposely use the ready rod since it is a softer grade of steel material so I can drill and easy-out it. Weld the nut or washer but don't try to be neat , puddle the $hit out of it and get it hot as you can , use grade 8 nuts or washers , grab the puddle with vicegrips . Once you break thru the bottom of the broken bolt it will collapse some and take the pressure off, and can probably be turned out with a new sharp easy out type extractor. 2 You have to drill straight into the bolt, which can be a challenge. Torching off nuts I been successful at yet blowing out a broken bolt in a blind hole not as successful - bigger nuts\bolts is easier. To my surprise it moved when I bumped it with my glove trying to maneuver to get in line to hit it. The neighbour's dog's ears turned blue from the swearing it heard . Welding a washer to it,then a nut by welding around the outside of it,instead of trying to weld through the little hole in the center of the nut is the way to go. The left hand colbalt bits are very sharp, expensive, and short. "image": { "headline":"removing broken bolt in cast iron tractor frame>", TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. I find drilling right through to bottom and then heat and lube helps when using easy-out. It's rare for there not to be any room under a bolt even in a blind hole, because of the cone made by the original drill tip. every time I used a left hand bit it was simple short work of complete lasting joy , that a few minutes before reversed a most perplexing problem.. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Sometimes a stud will break inside the hub. [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. Dripped some penetrating oil in there for tomorrow. Even in my wheelchair chained fast to the mold I was able to drill it out and save the original threads. Then cut it off long enough to fit f\t hub flange, lock plate and regular nut. We all have different experiences. I spent the better part of last year pulling broken bolts and studs out of military aircraft. I then drilled the broken bolt holes with the proper tap size drill. My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. I did not try the welding idea because my welder runs off a 220 diesel generator which was outside and it does not like to start in cold weather. All cases is not the case. I will start doing that today. [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. It does not look pretty but hole is very usable and now I can attach my rad support side panel securely. I find with drilling grind it flat if possible and take time to centerpunch in exact center. For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases. When the same subject comes up by one that have told me I didn't know what I was talking about I just think to myself, figure it out and don't open that thread again. Look for 135 split points. Vicegrips wont turn it - they just slip off - about 1/16-3/32 sticking out of hole. My Case 530 is 1961 so that old broken bolt had possibly been rusting in there for 50 years or so. The bolt in question in this thread for me would have started as it did. One of the stuck causes that welding a washer and nut does not work is when a bolt that is long enough to bottom out and mushroom the end of the bolt to where it can not back out. the guy who showed me the flat washer trick, made the process even easier! It was a 5/8 grade eight allen bolt. Broken bolt was previously up an 1/8 or so yet vice grips wouldn't turn it so I figured welding a washer or nut on there may have been fruitless. Any suggestions? Know what you are drilling into and how deep you can go. For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases. I have no lefthand drill bits yet have to go to town tomorrow so see if I can get a few sizes. Usually if the damn thing was seized that good it'll take thread OK anyway. it worked with stick welders best. it worked with stick welders best.

Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much heat as you can. If it is bottomed really tight you might have a problem. I have no lefthand drill bits yet have to go to town tomorrow so see if I can get a few sizes. It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron. ^ just like that. i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. This particular 5/16 broken off bolt is in a spot where my my drill may not fit. Drilling to tap size and removing the threads works every time regardless of how stuck the bolt is. Drilling to tap size and removing the threads works every time regardless of how stuck the bolt is. I figure cast iron frame is possibly not letting heat travel down length of bolt that is in frame. One of the stuck causes that welding a washer and nut does not work is when a bolt that is long enough to bottom out and mushroom the end of the bolt to where it can not back out. Sorry that would probly be to fast and easy. I have done that several times and it works pretty good. I drilled two matching tap holes in some 1" flat bar scrap to match the same holes in the 1/4" plate. When the whole mess cools down, the space formerly occupied by the paper washer is now a clearance, and prevents the washer from binding on the surface. If you do not have the proper drills and taps or a tap size chart you may be correct in your case. The paper washer acts as a spacer.

I then drilled the broken bolt holes with the proper tap size drill. 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor. i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. I agree every case is different. I never get offended. the guy who showed me the flat washer trick, made the process even easier! It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron.

Sometimes that works. I did the ATF and heat a few times and I will try washer nut idea. your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. Is this bolt located near any other bolts/holes? The carbide burr can also be used to pull an errant hole back to center. You must have to be a whole lot smarter than me to get offended. A handle welded on can be a godsend. Dick L: Great pictures! 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? "width": 200, Absolutely I agree with you when a bolt has been bottomed out or protrudes through into an area where it has been corroded.

I happened on welding on rusted studs when I backed a loaded Chevy truck into a shop and caught the exhaust pipe on the lip of the floor, broke all six studs off in the 350 V-8. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. Then cut it off long enough to fit f\t hub flange, lock plate and regular nut. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. I make my own studs to hold full time hubs on with NC 3/8 ready rod. I remember being afraid to try it. "@context":"https://schema.org", I have removed broken bolts with a hammer and punch also. When drilling out bolts or studs, if you are able to use a magnetic drill, try using a two flute end mill ( slot drill ) or a centre cutting 4 flute end mill. You first pilot drill you work with the ruler to make sure you are on center. I have drilled out bolts that had the crap welded out of them trying to do it that way when it failed.

Sitemap 35

removing rusted bolts from cast ironnavy blue pants women