Arctic teal: First of these I printed this color, applies to others as well: printed @ 215C, and print came out very stringy and there is clearly layer to layer differences. With those setting 10mm bridges perfect, 15mm OK and 20mm clearly too much. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Finish is between When printed with PrusaSlicer's "Generic PLA" profile and 190C the end result was matte. Generally good filaments, print well and look nice, but bed adhesion is on the weak side. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile, and 200% was still printing OK, which was surprice considering how soft the filament is. Good bed adhesion and prints nicely 240C first layer and 250C other layers. Dried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Printing at 255C seems to make the overextrusion issue worse. White:Fillamentum ABS Traffic White (alternative: Fillamentum ASA Snow White, not as white, does not print as well, more layer to layer variance). Recommendation 200-230C nozzle and 50-60C. and finish quality is important for me in addition to mechanical Printing temperature doesn't have any effect to color or glossiness. Recommendation: nozzle 255-270C, bed 90-110C. After drying filament 24h (not joke) the result was better, however stringing is still major problem. This is "neon green" unlike the Prusament which claims to be. settings for filament type e.g. External perimiters nice and shiny, no matter what settings. Bed adhesion was on low side when printed using 65C bed temperature. Transparent and shiny dark blue. So my user experience doesn't reflect to someone printing To get a feel for what this transition looked like on a model with a higher level of detail, I printed out the Aquaticus Dragon by Makerbot on the Mingda Rock 3 Pro. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue). Test print was done 230C & 75C; 44mm/s and 22mm/s don't have much difference, and 11mm/s was clearly darker. But the surface finish is always a little matt. Generally recommended 190-210C and 60C bed, but there are exceptions. were OK with 0.8mm nozzle. Not tried yet. Everything is compromise :) can't always find good filament in good colors, and sometimes when one finds perfect color filament other qualities suck. General: According to 3DJake.com 190-220C & 40-60C. If your print has large flat areas or gentle curves, the reflections will pick up any issues, such as ghosting or a Z seam. If you are not happy with the quality of our product we are happy to replace it. Top solid surface best when extrusion multiplier set to 107%. I really would like to use PETG as there really aren't many glossy PLA filaments. The Anycubic Plant-Based UV resin is an eco-friendly alternative to most photopolymer resins on the market that is aimed at anyone interested [], In these innovation-rich times, new interesting 3D printer filaments come out to the market on a yearly basis. Quite low temperatures for ABS+. NinjaTek shore hardness and printing settings: 85A, nozzle 225-250C, bed 50C + gluestick, top and bottom 10-20mm/s, infill 15-35mm/s, layer 2+ use cooling fan. The slight increase in flexibility may be useful for some prints, but if this is what youre after, a different plastic, such as PETG, may be more appropriate. Difference in layer printing duration didn't seem to cause color/tone/glossiness. no warping. few layers print multiple minutes while rest of layers are about 1 minute. Additionally noticed that very large prints were more khaki, and smaller prints had more yellow/orange tint on them. Very nice and vibrant color, somewhat transparent. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 225C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s in a way Finish is always glossy, shade of gray depends on alyer print time (e.g. Also if I'm I have printed almost everything with PLA. Very dark glossy green. General: 3DJake.com defines 220-250C and 95-110C. Sadly colors suck in ABS-T "series" of filaments from Filament PM, this kind of print quality would be interesting on other colors as well. Some people report clogging issues with silk, but this isnt something weve experienced. Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235C, heated bed required 70-80C. Gray: Printed Voron StealthBurner cooling ducts @ 255C & 110C => chamber temp was 52-53C Larger structures seem to stick, but for example if printed object has "O"-letter and the center is 2mm x 3mm there is Color is saturated red, not as saturated as Prusament Lipstick Red but very close. Not tried yet. Required fields are marked *. glossy = parts which are clearly glossy, showing reflections of objects nearby (not only light sources) e.g. However, the elastomers that make silk filament shiny also affect its physical properties slightly. The denser print transitioned much more quickly and went through two complete color changes during the printing process. Printed parts are so smooth; smooth perimeters and really Prints quite nice but suffers from elephant foot more than average filaments. Stringiness is problem, and retraction settings don't seem to have any effect to it. Package: nozzle 210-240C, bed 40-60C. Recommended 230-250C nozzle and 100-110C bed. 45 overhang was OK, 55 overhand did curve upwards towards end of bed (the part cooling fan blows from front), and this was pretty bad as well as the whole rear edge of 55 overhang. Seems that based on the Sunly PLA+ Blue and Silk Green that these Sunlu PLA+ filaments are worth checking other colors as well; are they are good as Silk Green or otherwise good but lacking layer-to-layer adhesion like Blue? If you experience this, its worth going through the usual processes for cleaning your extruder and perhaps checking that youre printing at the correct temperature for your filament (it may need to be a little warmer than PLA). I don't understand why Fiberlogy Result is somewhat transparent. Based on temperature tower printed first prints @ 240-245C and that doesn't With Voron I have mainly printed with 0.6mm nozzle Semiglossy finish. Bed adhesion was good using 195C first layer seemed to be OK. Khaki colored matter filament. provide strong prints, but they look better. Recommended 240-255C and 80-105C. It looks best on prints with a lot of features, such as sharp edges or tight curves the reflections then pick out these features. Filement is quite stringy, and some experimenting Perimeters glossy, top between glossy and semiglossy. I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does General: According to 3DJake.com 190-220C & 40-60C. Manufacturer recommends 220-240C and 90-100C. My definitions of glossiness: Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. To increase the speed of the color transition, this model could have been printed with a higher level of infill or increased in size to increase the total amount of material used. Very glossy black, which prints well. 240C almost no stringing, 250C little stringing and 260-270C lots of stringing. The results from printing temperature tower was weird, if I would have not observed this printing I would assume I had forgotten to add the G-code for changing temperature; the results from 220-230-240-250-260C were almost identical, minor differences on stringing and smooth surfaces were little more smoother. Not yet tried. Color is little weird combo of blue and green, some sort of turquoise - on spool looks more green, but actual prints look dark blue. Your email address will not be published. With Prusa I have printed everything with Surface finish is shiny. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. Bed adhesion very weak or warping very strong or both, definitely will not buy again this one. I printed the Plunderbuss Pete model on Longer LK5 Pro 3D printer using the Standard Quality print setting in Cura using TTYD3D rainbow PLA filament for this model. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. Clearly softer than the other 95A filaments. Either this is the sh#ttiest ASA on top of earth or the manufacturer recommends are way off, next time try 260C and very low fan even there is enough chamber temperature. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Also there was no drawback using higher temp, even overhangs were Light green: Filamentworld ABS+ Neon Green* (Alternative: Filament-PM ABS-T Yellowgreen) In spool it says only 230-260C. Matte white, not 100% white, very very small warm tint. Prusa not making this one, this is made by Filament PM, and their Pearl Green is the same filament. Package says 220-240C. You can typically find such Rainbow filaments in a range between $25-$30, which falls into the price range of a spool of a high-quality PLA material. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S Interesting to see does this REALLY need Magigoo or will ordinary PEI or PEI+gluestick work. Have seen in Voron discord mentions that hard to detach from bed if one let's bed to cool. When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. Temperatures are same As "PLA+ Silk Green" so I decided to try printing this close to bottom of temperature range @ 215C and this was mistake: layer adhesion was not at all same level as "PLA+ Silk Green" @ 230C. Filament-PM tries to warn that this is somehow difficult to print, but with Voron it print very nicely. Package and spool say very wide temperature range 230-270C and 80-120C bed. mostly printing ABS. Bed adhesion seems to be weak, very weak - brim needed, and don't even dream of textured PEI. Finish is shiny. Package: shore hardness 30D (about 86A), 200-220C. Print quality pretty nice, not much stringing. Did buy only once as these were same as 3DJake's niceABS blue and black, and it's 30% cheaper. Recommendation 230-240C and bed 90-100C. Color is light green, almost light cyan. 
Additional recommendations from website: Flow rate 110-130%, can be printed fast (they mention >80mm/s. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 205C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s look ok. Color name is accurate, finish is matte but there is little diffused gloss. temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality. Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4-0.6mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm. All Rights Reserved. Very hard filament, not much different compared to PETG, parted printed with this are very rigid, not very flexible. Similar neon green as Sunlu PETG. As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235C. At 250C printed part was good, no layer to layer variancy due to filament diameter changes, but in closer inspection large differences on layer print Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Best settings seem to be 230C and unlike many other filaments extrusion multiplier 100% produces good top surfaces, 105% was not significantly better. If some 3D printing [], Using Siraya Tech Simple Clear resin, users of resin 3D printers are able to make models with a high level of translucency [], Another 3D printing material, which we have tested for the use in the home or office environment, is PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate). Also not the greatest bed adhesion. Posted If manufacturer recommended temperature differs Youll get exclusive subscriber offers, and more projects, ideas, and inspiration than you can shake a toolbox at. 230C nozzle worked fine, but 225C might be worth checking, at least with copper nozzle. Recommendations: nozzle 250-265C. I got best results using modified SainSmart TPU (nozzle 230C, bed 70C, Extrusion multiplier 1.1, 80% fan speed, Max volumetric speed 2.5mm/s[didn't touch speeds itself, this will limit it enough with 0.6mm nozzle]), thou benchy smoke pipe was just pile of molten filament, but otherwise benchy was perfect minus some some stringing (not bad, many PETG produce worse stringing). Prints nicely, very even layers. Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260C, speed 30-110mm/s. Temperature range provided by manufacturer 200-220C, but 230-240C produced best results. Little bit darker than the other "army green" like greens, hue is little from green towards blue. Once I got chamber temperature to above 55C, Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Package: nozzle 200-240C, bed 80C. Formfutura instructs to use 225-270C nozzle, 90-110C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure. Having a base of PLA, PLA SILK FILAMENT is very easy to use with a very rewarding shiny finish. Transparent glossy saturated dark blue. Gray/Silver: Fillamentum ASA Vertigo Gray (Alternative Filament-PM ABS Silver) Also it could work with the BuildTak surface. Printed parts have an almost metallic sheen to them, which gives the models a finished look, but can, unfortunately, amplify minor defects due to how consistent the rest of the print looks. advertises this filament like this: Recommendation 250-265C nozzle and 90-110C. Also brain usage is needed; in darker filaments the light source reflections from layer lines have greater contrast than in light colored filament -> at quick glance lighter filaments may appear more matte. 0.6mm chamfer on bottom and no elephant foot compensation was close to perfect, could try next time 0.5mm, bed adhesion was great with glue and on the first parts printed there was Colors is very dark violet/blue with some red in it. 3DJAKE recommends: 205-225C nozzle, 60C bed. Naturally the list is never final Also this is for my use cases; large prints in 55-60C chamber, many filaments in the list are not usable without quite high chamber temperature. for the Voron V2.4. Recommendation: nozzle 210-250C, bed 60-100C. Like advertised color is army green, slightly darker compared to what usually is considered as army green. Recommended nozzle 215-240C and 100-110C bed (notice! Subscribe to the HackSpace magazine RSS feed. PET [], Your email address will not be published. Glossy finish. small figurines etc. Recommendation: nozzle 230-260C, bed 90-120C. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings. Very easy to print due the base elements being PLA. I really like in PETG, but atleast without enclosure I have not benchy until 8mm is darker, and above that lighter gray - glossines remain same. If youve ever wanted to print a model with multiple colors on a single extruder 3D printer without changing materials mid-print, the Rainbow Silk PLA filament is definitely worth checking out. Filament PM's Green ABS) Lighter and little more saturated than the other "army green" like filaments. This is because of Recommended temperatures are lower than usual: 210-240C nozzle and bed 100-110C (3DJake has these wrong). differences in warping and 1st layer adhesion => so only exceptional So I would assume the green is supposed to be achieved by blending blue plastic and yellow glitter, and not successfully in my opinion - I would call end result "dirty blue" as it somehow looks dirty instead of green.. Semigloss finish. Prints that use more material will change color at a faster rate than prints that only use a small amount of material. At 240C longer layer print time caused the yellow to be darker (complex structure with lots of horizontal planes => external perimiters on heights with longer layers with lots of solid infill/top infill did look different). semiglossy = it's not glossy, but you can see light reflection from layerlines Silk PLA has added magic that makes it shine. Tend to have bed adhesion issues are requires very thorough drying before printing and even then tends to "bubble". Prints great without fan or with 18% fan using 255/245C nozzle & 100/95C bed. The filament I used is Enotepad Silk PLA+, it is currently available for sale directly from their site as well as on Amazon. Spool is 100% identical to Sunly PETG I ordered at same time from Amazon in 2020, and both have this ridiculously low 200-220C recommendation, interesting to see if Sunly is actually same filament with same issues. No matter what retraction setting used seems stringy. Package: nozzle 190-230C, 25-60C. As I plan not to sand and paint the 3D-printed parts the color Bench printed at 220C was stringy and there was quite a lot of layer to layer differences (bad tolerance of filament). printing something, which is not going to displayed in it's final use Physical properties like Silk Green. Recommended: Nozzle 240-260C and bed 100-110C. Filament contains some glitter, and it appears to be yellow. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 210-230C, bed 70-80. Temperature range is on the low end; 180-200C. When printed @ 200C results are matte for 44mm/s, and equally semiglossy for 22mm/s and 11mm/s.Spool identical to Creality Green PLA (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament. This website uses cookies to collect data for advertising purposes and improve user experience. Spool has nicely every 90 degrees dual holes for filament end. found reliable way to print large prints with PETG. PETG prints much better if it's first dried about 10h with food dehydrator. All Filamentum ABS colors I have tried are strong, and no boring matte finish. 3DJAKE recommends: 215-235C nozzle, 50-70C bed. Package: nozzle 185-215C, bed 0-45C. Extrudr recommends 40-60mm/s printing speed. Unlike most spools of 3D printer filament which contain a single color consistently throughout the spool, the Rainbow PLA features a gradient of multiple colors that transitions throughout the spool of material. Recommended: 220-250C nozzle and 70-80C bed. also this filament warps a lot in low chamber temperatures. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. "Effect color": Filament-PM ABS-T Orange, Filament-PM ABS-T Pink, Extruder ASA Neon Yellow Prints quite nicely. All printed perfectly and look the same. All PLA prints easily and generally there are small that they were printed too hot => so try next time 215-210C???. Prints nicely, layer to layer variance little too big for my taste thou. Package recommends 220-250C nozzle, 0-60C bed, 50-100% fan and no enclosure. Filament prints very nicely, bridging and overhangs are great as well as bed and layer adhesion. If nothing else mentioned results are based on PrusaSlicer default Another interesting desktop 3D printer material to try is the color-changing on temperature filament. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Warping is much worse than PLA, and in most large prints at least the corners tend to "lift off" with PLA. In the print I did I used feature to adjust layer height and it was mistake; the 0.15mm layer height is considerable less saturated and less transparent than layers printed 0.30mm. When printed 205C and external perimiters 20mm/s the result are OK. And now its got even better, with the introduction of the new internet-enabled Ra. warping; when printing large parts filling almost whole printer bed Matte white filament. Recommendation 200-230C nozzle and 50-60C. Not good on bridging, 15mm is too much. We wouldnt recommend silk PLA for any mechanically important parts the elastomers that make it shiny affect its strength. Filament is transparent, interesting to see how parts turn outand oh boy this filament prints very nicely Recommended: 200-235C nozzle and 50-60C bed. Personal note; this is the one used in computer front dust-screen holder. almost 2 years ago. Filament Diameter: 1.75 Color Change approx. Prints nice with Voron at max temp from range. Finish is @25mm/s matte 185-195C, and start to get semiglossy 205-215C - layer print temperature has effect to glossiness/darkness. Bed adhesion weak even with 60C bed and 225C nozzle. Like "PLA+ Silk Green" filament is softer and more flexible than typical PLAs. I was suspicious of mechanical qualities and strength, but they are very good even filament is transparent, easy to print, looking nice and on top of all quite cheap. Extreme bed adhesion, do not use with smooth PEI; will rip pieces from PEI Good filaments, print very nicely. Not as good as ABS+, for example layer printtime has effect to color. Anycubic Plant-Based UV Resin Low Odor, High Detail, 3D Printer Filaments 2022 Popular Types and Innovations, Win $10,000 Worth of Conductive Filament 3D Printing Competition, Snapmaker Artisan 3-in-1 3D Printer Comparison to Snapmaker 2, Monoprice Joule 3D Printer Review: Clone of a Clone, Elegoo Saturn S Review: Large Format 4K Resin 3D Printer, How to Make 3D Printing Timelapse on FDM and Resin 3D Printers, Mingda Magician Pro Review Large and in Charge, The Legend: AR Storytelling with a 3D Printed Twist, ResinLapse Time Lapse for Resin 3D Printing, 3DWithUs - 3D Design / 3D Printing / 3D Scanning - Guides & Reviews. Physical properties like Silk Green. Very little variation between layers even layer print time varies. Printed with Voron using LGX Lite extruder and Dragon HF nicely. R3D call glitter filament "Twingling". Prints very nicely, and doesn't need as badly drying as other PETG I have tried (of course beneficial to dry filament before printing). Temperature tower was brittle at 225C, 235C and 245C, but was good 255C and 265C. when turning part in your hand there is no difference in which angle the light hits to the part Finish: 220C matte, 230C matte/semigloss, 240C semigloss/glossy and above glossy. Recommended temperature range 200-220C, test print done at maximum temperature. nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom. Package: nozzle 230-255C, bed 60-80C, Not tried yet. The Raspberry Pi Pico: its tiny, its fast, its versatile, and even more impressively these days its available. Quite saturated teal. Marc de Vinck has been tinkering with some favourite music-making accessories for Raspberry Pi, Space Shuttle Discovery Soldering Kit review, An electronics project thats out of this world, Classic magnetic fun updated for the maker age, Loopie lamp's smooth edges transition through light sequences, Convert goo into plastic parts as fast as possible, NanoRobotGeek's beautiful sculpture reacts to its surroundings. Due to the fact that the Silk PLA+ has an extremely reflective and shiny surface, I also noticed that randomizing the seams resulted in very visible defects at each layer where the toolpath would start and stop. "Metal": Formfutura Easyfil ABS Bronze (would prefer gold, but haven't found good ABS/ASA gold - Alternative Filament-PM ABS-T Copper) what I could complain in the print. Ended up using 1mm (really high value compared to ABS and PLA). Jake3D webpages have these wrong). have to take new fresh start with this one. Tends to caube "blobs" (collects filament to outside of nozzle and at some point "drops" the collected blob to printed part). and adjustments needed (test prints just with SuperSlicer's default Voron PET profile).
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